Rugged As Iron Works

Rugged As Iron Works Self-taught blacksmith, metal fabricator, welder, machinist and leather worker. Commissions welcome.

I have been cold-working metal for over twenty-five years and blacksmithing for over fifteen years. I started blacksmithing because I was no longer satisfied with just bending sheet metal and wire. I wanted to make things from steel like knives and tools that you simply couldn’t do cold. Because I started learning how to blacksmith before Forged in Fire became popular and blacksmithing became cool

, there wasn’t the same resources available as there is today. Consequently, I am a self-taught blacksmith and this has always been a hobby for me. It took time to acquire the skills, experience and equipment necessary to produce high quality axes, knives and other forged items. It also helps that my workshop is where I go to unwind, get some exercise and make something physical; it’s a great break from a desk job. As I slowly approach retirement, I am also happily looking forward to spending more time pounding hot metal. I lean towards the bladesmith variety of blacksmith and prefer making axes and damascus knives. I have made over 70 axes and hatchets in the last two years, which was unexpected as I started making them only to recycle my overflowing pile of leaf-springs. I make bearded axes as I find the broad-headed style more impressive than a regular axe, and they excel at chopping and carving while still being good for splitting wood. Some of my more recent axes are made from railway rails, because there is just something satisfying about making an axe out of something that used to hold up entire trains. Over the years I have made around twenty knives, half mono-steel and half damascus. I love making the damascus knives as the patterns that form are elegant, and so interesting to the eye. The coolness factor comes from knowing the knife you are holding is made from two different steels forge-welded together, folded and hammered over and over until the two steels are intermixed in hundreds of layers. Damascus is also a challenge, because while I can make a mono-steel knife with a grinder and a propane torch, you need a really hot forge, the right metal and the know how to make a damascus knife and not all smiths can do that. You also need a really big hammer or a really big arm, preferably both. However, given the large time commitment damascus knives take (10-20 hours) I tend to only make them only by commission. I also make a variety of other things or provide metal fabrication and machining services when requested or as time permits. I make decorative hooks for hanging things, rounding hammers and other blacksmithing specific tools and equipment. I can cast aluminum as belt buckles or hard-to-find tool parts, and brass for knife guards. I fabricate metal artwork, plant stands, and small items by request. I also perform small welding and metal repair jobs at request, although I am not a licensed welder. I take pride in my work, and I offer a limited warranty with all my products. if you manage to break a product through normal wear and use, I will do my best to repair it at no cost or at a reduced rate.

Making a pop-culture farming tool.I was making billets from railway track for axes and forged a smaller billet into Kuna...
04/12/2026

Making a pop-culture farming tool.

I was making billets from railway track for axes and forged a smaller billet into Kunai on the side for a friend.

A Kunai is a Japanese knife shaped object used for agriculture and masonry, with a wide diamond shaped blade and a round handle with a ring. In pop culture it’s associated with ninjas and used as a weapon, to climb and sometimes to throw, with a rope attached to the ring.

Being based on a anime version (at the friend’s request), this one is 2” wide and 1” thick at the biggest section, so quite heavy, rather dull and certainly impracticable! But it will make a good paperweight and/or doorstop.

Now to axes!

Making a sword display plaque because I'm cheap.I went shopping for a wall mount for my custom military officer's sword ...
04/07/2026

Making a sword display plaque because I'm cheap.

I went shopping for a wall mount for my custom military officer's sword and was astounded at the price, with most in the $250-300 Cdn range!

Well, I wasn't about to spend more on the wood plaque then I did for the raw steel, so I opted to make one. I had a rhomboid-shaped slab of black walnut that was 40x14x1-5" leftover from a batch of axes with black walnut handles. So after using a table saw, chop saw, 2x bandsaws, jointer and planer, I managed to turn it into a plank and two uprights....and a small mountain of sawdust and shavings. Some careful drilling, band-sawing, routing, screwing and sanding later, and I had a complete wall mount that was ready for some coats of boiled linseed oil, and more sawdust.

I put some extra thought into it and routed in screw eyes in the back for both 16" and 24" studs, and made the uprights to act as feet so it can free-stand on a surface as well.

Total cost to me, $4, to pay the kids to clean up all the sawdust, and lots of time:)

And once the metal blackening solution arrives for the scabbard I'll find an appropriate place to display it all.

03/31/2026

Testing a custom 1897 Pattern CAF Army Officers sword against a innocent melon.

Making a metal scabbardSurprisingly one doesn’t need a forge to make a metal scabbard or its fittings, but a hydraulic p...
03/30/2026

Making a metal scabbard

Surprisingly one doesn’t need a forge to make a metal scabbard or its fittings, but a hydraulic press is quite helpful.

First I took a metal pipe, 1/16” wall and 1” outer diameter, and squished it into an oval using a press. My first attempt using my flattening dies left dents, so I sandwiched the pipe with two hardwood blocks and it worked reasonably well.

Then I cut out the tip guard and welded it on, . There’s a few different styles of tip guard, from violin body to squared oval to bumpy to choose from, but I had an idea. There’s also a fighting style unique to metal scabbards, where the scabbard is held in the offhand and is used to parry. Well, why stop there. I put a thicker tip guard on the scabbard with some extra bumpy angles and now it’s also a functional club.

Next was turning two rings in the metal lathe and with copious use of the welder, I built build up the metal, shaped them and drilled holes to fit rings in the future. Then I solders them onto the scabbard.

Lastly I machined, milled and carved an oval mouth for the scabbard, and filed it carefully to fit the blade. Some judicious use of a rubber mallet to aid insertion and the scabbard was pretty much done.

The last step will be to cold blue the scabbard so it matches the sword better and isn’t quite so shiny, but that’s for another day,

03/24/2026

A close up of the 1897 pattern Canadian Officers sword, with its 256-layer high carbon steel damascus blade.

My answer to "What did you do over March break?" is, I made a sword!Funny, I did that during the holidays too! Oh well, ...
03/22/2026

My answer to "What did you do over March break?" is, I made a sword!

Funny, I did that during the holidays too! Oh well, it's a good trend.

This sword is a 1897 Pattern Canadian Officers sword, the common sword design for the Canadian Army and British Infantry Officers.

These are thrusting swords, with a 32.5" blade, 1" wide and 1/4" thick at the guard, with a fuller for half (or more), giving it a barbell cross-section that transitions to a wedge until the spear-point. These sword have a three-quarter basket hilted design (the guard), a pommel with integral backstrap and a shark or ray skin bound handle. Most are for display or ceremonial use, with stainless or medium-carbon steel unsharpened blades with scroll or floral engravings, and stamped sheet metal/brass fittings, with a price tag of ~ $1400,

I decided to make a distinctly un-ceremonial sword.

This sword, as noted in previous posts, has a Damascus, blade with a mix of 256-layers of 1090 & 15N20 high carbon steels, a longer fuller to move the balance closer to the guard and has been sharpened for the first 12" of the edge and 4" of the false edge. I have elected to leave the typical scrollwork engravings off the blade as I find the half-random, half-ladder Damascus pattern integral to the blade far nicer.

The guard is made from wrought iron that is well over 100 years old and has been forged to shape, curving both vertically and horizontally for extra toughness. This was challenging to do, and I ended up forge welding two pieces of wrought iron together to get enough good material...and it took FOUR attempts! I may pierce and carve the guard later, and will also etch it for a few more days to pop the grain pattern.

The handle is stingray skin over oak, with a Damascus steel retaining band, The backstrap/pommel is also wrought iron, hand carved into a stylized snake - a snake being the animal associated with the medical profession.

This sword is for my personal use, and while I could have bought one, making a better one was more satisfying and cheaper!...if you don't count the hours :O

Next up, a scabbard.

.

Three, 256-layer Damascus knives ready for the final sharpen and sheaths.The first on the left, the square one, is Japan...
03/04/2026

Three, 256-layer Damascus knives ready for the final sharpen and sheaths.

The first on the left, the square one, is Japanese style straight razor, with a 2.5” blade that is 5/32” at the spine. It is specifically a right hand razor with a chisel grind offset to the left. I punched a hole in the end of the handle to enable air drying after use.

The next is a big bellied skinner, a full-tang hunting knife with a coco bolo handle, the blade is 4” long, 7/32” at the spine and 9” overall.

The last is the skinners big brother, a 4 1/2” blade, 9/32” at the spine and a whole 9.5” overall length. The handle is sized for XL-XXL hands, and fits my grip nicely.

All of these came from the two 246-layer, normal AKA random pattern, Damascus billets I forged over the holidays, and I’ve still got stock for more. And after these I’m back to working on the Damascus sword.

Test etching four 256-layer Damascus blades.After two weeks of intermittent surface grinding, profile grinding, bevel gr...
02/22/2026

Test etching four 256-layer Damascus blades.

After two weeks of intermittent surface grinding, profile grinding, bevel grinding, die grinding, scotchbrite-ing, belt grinding to 350 grit and hand sanding to 600 grit, I was finally ready for a test etch in ferric chloride.

Well, they are definitely Damascus steel, and have a nice random pattern after only a minute in the etch.

I’ll etch the knives and the sword for several hours after the handles are made and just before final fit up. But this is definitely some good progress and I’m happy to finally see some results from all this effort:)

Making the Mark 2 surface grinder arm, during Week 2 of down to -22CIt’s been so cold the last few week, that working in...
02/09/2026

Making the Mark 2 surface grinder arm, during Week 2 of down to -22C

It’s been so cold the last few week, that working in the shop isn’t all that productive, and trying to use sub-zero metal tools makes one’s fingers very numb, even with gloves on!

So I had the idea of plumbing in a propane BBQ tank outlet into my forge supply, and picked up a 38K BTU propane heater to help heat the shop.

Well that worked well until it got down to -22 Celsius (-7.5F), and then I was only able to create a little bubble of heat, which was just big enough to work on improving my surface grinder attachment.

I realized after making it that that it would be a lot more efficient (I.e lazy) if I didn’t have to do repetitive bicep curls every time I used the attachment, so I put on a side plate and rotated the sliding arm 80 degrees, and now it’s more of a rowing action. Much easier!

At the same time, I replaced the Y-axis sliding block because the screw that moved the stock into the grinding wheel was too weak and loosened easily so the surface tapered whether wanted or not. I replaced that with a better designed block, reground the vice and it is working great now.

Next up, using the surface grinder to flattery a Damascus knife…but on a warmer day!

Making a fullering tool with chilly fingers and questionable shortcuts.It’s been between -14 and -27 this week, which is...
01/26/2026

Making a fullering tool with chilly fingers and questionable shortcuts.

It’s been between -14 and -27 this week, which is just too chilly to work in the garage for long, even with some heaters going. So I popped into the shop a few times this week and worked until my fingers got numb, and made a fullering attachment for the belt grinder. Effectively it’s a type of horizontal small wheel attachment, but with especially small bearings, which helps make the wheel really thin.

Unfortunately, it was thin enough that when When I shaped the wheel on my metal lathe and pressed in the bearings, the press distorted the wheel and it vibrated.

It’s really hard to turn a wheel true with bearings in both ends, and misshapen outer rim. The solution is to put a tapered rod in the lathe chuck and tail stock to hold the piece so it’s correctly aligned. This is called turning between two centres in machining terms, ur you need a lathe dog, I.e. clamp to stop the piece from rotating on its bearings.

Well my lathe dog is too small, and I didn’t want it to take more time in the chilly garage to make one, so…I put on more safety gear, used two clamps, prayed once and spun it for three seconds, which was just long enough true up the outer. After that I was able to clamp and finish it normally., and grind in the rough fillers on the military patten sword.

Normally I’d say something like it’s not stupid if it works, but in this case, I’m leaning more towards it still being stupid even though it worked.

Doing the boring part of forging Damascus steel.Not all forging is exciting, and when you’re working with $700 of steel,...
01/18/2026

Doing the boring part of forging Damascus steel.

Not all forging is exciting, and when you’re working with $700 of steel, that’s probably a good thing. This weekends work was drawing out a 10” billet of Damascus into a 37” blade, with a taper and a partial fuller. As well as forging out and grinding a knife from a third of another bar. There was plenty of Damascus left over from both as well, which is the stack of random pieces seen in the photo.

I made a fullering die for the press with the intention of pressing in the fuller, with mixed results. It worked well for pressing, but things got briefly exciting. Pressing in the fuller went well, but widened the blade from 1” 1/16 to 1.5”. Pressing the blade back to 1 1/16 width ended up distorting the blade and it took a lot of back and forth with the straight and fullering dies to get it straight and the right width and thickness again. At the end I had a straight blade with an imperfect fuller that was 3” longer than before, hence the cutoff on the pile.

I think the fullering dies have a place with wider blades like the Viking sword, and not as much with narrow blades like the 1897 pattern British officers sword I’m working on.

So yes, I’ll take boring but when working with Damascus steel vs exciting anyday.

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Angus, ON

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